Would Like Mountain Bike Information!

[maduro cigar]

With the way things are going it might not be long before we see a lot of these being used.
Could some of you in the know, post some links, and give recommendations on some good quality mountain bikes? Thanks,

[Buttercup]

I'm putting this thread in the Barn.. You should get some good suggestions there... :wink:

[lcdub]

If you really intend to travel off road then http://forums.mtbr.com/

I think what you really want is a bike that primarily travels on pavement, but can go off road if needed. That would be perfect for a cyclocross bike.
http://www.bikeforums.net/forumdisplay.php?f=23

[recorderguy]

I used to work in a bike shop. I've got lots of advice I can give.

Stay away from wal-mart, etc. The quality really just isn't there. Many a good bike can be had gently-used at yard sales, bike shops, swap meets, etc. People buy them with good intentions, then revert back to their lazy ways. Or else they never "fit" (read: adjusted) the bike correctly, and its uncomfortable for them to ride. I've detailed how to avoid this below, please bear with me.



Get a bike that fits you:

Get the right size bike. Measure your inseam, your real inseam, not pants size.
Multiply your inseam by .65 This is the size frame for a road bike (which I wouldn't get for your situation, see below) For a Mountain bike or hybrid, subtract 4 inches.

This answer is the frame size you should get, note the measurement won't be exact, this will just get you in the ball park, now try the bikes on.



Find a good local bike shop. These people are proffessionals and have a lot of good advice to give. They are all enthusiasts and enjoy what they do (well they should anyway). Advice is free, and it can save you some trouble. Plus they are great information resources.

If its not comfortable, you won't ride it. This is one reason why there's so many barely used bikes for sale.

Setup the bike correctly, seat height, etc.

One of the most important factors about biking is how you "fit the bike".

I'm going to take a bit of time and detail exactly how to do this because it is so important, and so many folks do not know how to do it properly.

9/10 people do not have their seats adjusted correctly.

You should be just short of full leg extension when your foot reaches the bottom of the pedal arc. Some slight knee bend is desireable at the bottom of your stroke.

Make seat height so leg is FULLY extended with heel on pedal, this will provide you with proper knee bend when the balls of your feet are on the pedal (where they should be)

Make this adjustment with the seat level and centered.

Now find the fore/aft adjustment.

This is best done on level ground, after riding 5 minutes or so.

Place your pedal at 3 oclock with your foot on it (Also, only the front of your foot (the ball of your foot) belongs on the pedal, not the middle of your foot, or worse your heel.)

Now adjust the seat forward/backward until an imaginary line drawn straight down from the little dent at the bottom of your kneecap is straight up and down (with another imaginary line roughly bisecting the axle of the pedal- (the part the pedal connects to the crank arm with)

As far as seat tip, less is more, never more than 5 degrees tipped up or down off level, this part is trial and error.

Now that your seat is adjusted properly, lets talk handlebars.

Your neck, hands or lower back hurts, raise the handle bars.

If you find your ass hurts all the time (after seat adjustment) lower the handle bars, you're putting too much weight on your butt.


Now, and only now if it's still uncomfortable replace the seat.

I prefer the cutaway type. There is a vein that runs to your junk (if you are a male) that gets pinched off when biking. It's not good for the baby makers. The cutout relieves this pressure. I also prefer a harder seat because I do a lot of moving around on my seat, standing, etc. applying weight to various areas of the seat for balance and speed (I mountain bike fairly aggressively).

Gel types are also fine, its just not my thing.

Great site explaining thwhat I've just detailed, but with better terms and pictures:

www.jimlangley.net/crank/bikefit.html (http://www.jimlangley.net/crank/bikefit.html)


I'd stay away from road bikes. I may get flamed for this, but they're fragile, and demand smooth surfaces, going over curbs or potholes incorrectly has bent many a rim. The OP knows this, I seem to be writing a book here, so I din't wanted to leave this out.

I'd get a hybrid or a mountain bike. Hybrids are more and more becoming known as commuter bikes, and are sold as such.

Front shocks are nice, but not required. You won't need a full suspension setup, very few people actually do. They do also up the price of the bike, and add in more parts that may break. However on any decent bike they will extremely rarely fail, unless you ride it hard. LIKE VERY HARD.

It is very possible to get a good "new" bike for $400.

Shop the bike shops, many will negiotiate price or have trade in models, or deals on "last years" models and tent sales in the spring (soon if not already)

I don't know how much stuff you plan on carrying around on the bike, but a rack and paniers (saddle bags) aren't going to break the bank.
I carry a little toolkit and tire tube and inner tube patch (or a product called "tire slime" - Like Fix a flat for bikes, though this will trash your valves and the tube, also makes a sticky mess, thats why I don't use it)- in a little bag under the seat, ironically called an underseat toolkit bag.

A manual airpump is attached to the bike frame.

If getting air at a gas station is important to you, check the inner tube valves. Many are "different" than on a car, these are called Presta valves. They are better than schrader valves ("normal"). Presta's are narrower, smaller hole in the rim, no spring in the valve to stick, easier to pump by hand, and uses a lock nut to close the valve. They will require an adapter (always in my toolkit). You can't put a schrader valve on a rim designed for a presta, the hole is too small.

Get a head light and tail light, visibility is important! LED lights are very nice now. Batteries also last a good deal of time.

Fenders are nice to have if its wet or muddy. I'm a tough guy, so I don't need no stinking fenders. However, I have been known to have to hose myself off before entering the house. And sometimes it's cold!

Maintenance to consider:

Tire Inflation - Most people neglect this! It doesn't tkae long and afffects EVERYTHING on your bike. When in doubt, read the max PSI on the side of the tire and go from there. Some prefer harder/softer tires, etc. Also there are situations when a lower PSI is desireable.

Chain - Clean and lube often! Replace when worn or rusted. They do actually stretch over time.

Cables - These stretch and come out of adjustment, adjust them to spec.

Tires - Do not let them wear out.

Spokes - Keep them universally tight.

Maintenance Books I'd recommend:

Zinn & The Art Of Mountain Bike Maintenance

by Lennard Zinn

Bicycling Magazine's Complete Guide to Bicycle Maintenance and Repair for Road and Mountain Bikes
by Jim Langley/Todd Downs (5th Edition)


Buy Spare Parts for Your Bike.
Brakes, Chain (or 2), Cables - Shifter and Brake, Tires, Tubes.

If you really want to be set long term:
Tools that fit pedals, wheel bearings, headset bearings, along with spare bearings and grease.

These tools are unique, and not easily fabricated. Buy quality tools.

Standard hand tools if you dont have them - Metric wrenches, screwdrivers, etc.


Now for some personal opinion:
Gary Fishers are great bang for the buck for mountain bikes, made by Trek, designed by Fisher. Treks are real nice too and I'd very highly recommend them. In fact, thats all I ride (including the Fishers I own), with the exception of my road race bike (Bianchi).

Go with a brand you have heard of before.

STAY AWAY FROM THE FOLDING "MILITARY" BIKE BY MONTAGUE. In my opinion, it's junk and I've heard many a tale of them folding up at in-opportune times. Hinged Frame - May not have been the best plan. There's even pending lawsuits with this bike.


Hope that helps, my fingers are tired.

[sojourner for Truth]

I've been trying learn as much as I can to maintain my bikes. I ride & my husband would work on them. I recognize it's time for me to step up to the pedal:) You have answered so many questions I was trying to find answers to.. Thanks!

[maduro cigar]

recorderguy, I'm going to print the data you provided, and take it with me when looking at these bicycles.
You provided a lot of data that I would never have thought of. Thanks,

[north runner]

I like the bikes with disc brakes, can't afford one, but I like them. After a riding winter of slush and snow I decided my brakes were crap. Some brakes are designed better than others. Definitely you need new chain every so often - Z chain and a chain breaker. I have no idea why more stainless steel isn't used. Its probably available.

[Falls_Tech]

STAY AWAY FROM THE FOLDING "MILITARY" BIKE BY MONTAGUE. In my opinion, it's junk and I've heard many a tale of them folding up at in-opportune times. Hinged Frame - May not have been the best plan. There's even pending lawsuits with this bike.




Thanks for posting that. I was thinking of buying one of those. Think I'll take your advice and pass....