Any other weavers on the list?

[Disastercat]

Hi, I've got to do a weaving order for a customer today so can't spend much time on line. But I thought I'd see if there were any other weavers here (I know we have spinners, I do that too). If so, what type of looms do you use and what do you most often weave?

I sell tablet weaving and do that on an Inkle loom but for fun I weave fiber and blankets on a Baby Wolf 26 inch loom with 4 heddles and six treddles. I mostly use commercial wool, though I've woven one scarf with garden dyed home spun (mostly St. John's Wart) and hope to do more with homespun this Winter.

I have a small weaving studio that my Irish housemate built me, its an enclosed area in a an outbuilding. Easy to heat and much better to keep the moths out than in the main house where they just live, no matter what we do (I have tried everything known to man, but having a very messy DH and household, the 200 year old house is just never clean enough to get them out altogether).

Anyway, I'm off to work, since I can't seem to post more pictures here, I'll let people know when stuff is either in my webshots or my weaving blog http://sagadis.blogspot.com And if anyone knows how I can delete old pictures taking up space here at TOL, (or get around the limit) please let me know.

More later,
DC

[MaryLu]

When time permits, which hasn't been much in the last 2 years. Hoping to get back to it more this winter. With 6 different looms collecting dust, I need to find the time.

[Midnight Blue]

That is just one more craft I have wanted to learn.

[Deb Mc.]

I sure do want to learn - have a Kromski Harp rigid heddle loom here at home. I haven't started to learn how to weave yet - am concentrating on learning how to spin fibers into yarns first. Once I have a decent handle on that, then weaving.

It looks like a very relaxing art, once you're past getting it warped. :-)

[Disastercat]

This Winter try getting out your Kromski Harp (I started with a large one of these) and warp with commerical yarn. Try a good strong cotton or rug weighted worsted wool. There are some great books on ridged heddle weaving that can show you how to warp and set up.

In my experience, it is a mistake to wait to work with your homepsun, because weaving itself is tricky enough without fighting your yarn as well. After you learn to weave, you will have a much better idea what lots of homespun yarn work best for what. At first, it can be best to use commerical warp and homespun weft. I've only recently started using homespun warps and heavier ones at that.

Both skills do come together in a wonderful way, but if you learn them together (spinning is something you never really stop learning, but once you have "it" the knack stays) then you are less likely to be tramatized the way I was and wait several years before trying to warp on another project.

Just some hints in the "been there, done that" catagory..

[Deb Mc.]

DC,

Thank you! I'll give it a try then. Do you think it's better to start with a cotton for the warp, as it's more abrasion-resistant? Am concerned about shrinkage though, since I think the weft will mainly be wool-based yarns.

Thanks again!

[Disastercat]

Yes, try your very first project with cotton, crochet thread can work or even cotton yarns. If you have to start with wool, try a good strong rug yarn. It has to be able to go through the heddles but for a first project the stronger and heavier it is, the less frustrated you are likely to be.

To test yarn, yank it a bit, if it breaks it is weft yarn, it if doesn't it can be warp. But fuzzy yarns, softer wool yarns and linen yarns are all very hard to manage as warps. The more so as first warps.

So, go for a nice colorful cotton if you can get it (I used number 10 crochet thread) or the sort of wool yarn you might knit a pot holder out of. After you do one project from warp to finishes then experiment a little.

I found the book Warping All by Yourself to be a great help. Its designed for multi-shaft looms, but the basic process is pretty much the same. You'll just be warping through the heddles (and you can find on-line sources for this) a little differently. But this book will tell you how to measure your warp and how to pack it on the loom etc.

http://www.amazon.com/Warping-All-Yourself-Cay-Garrett/dp/0930670019

Also, for a first project, your loom comes with a warping peg for short warps and I suggest using that for your first one. You won't be able to make something very long, but it will be easier to manage. The second project, flip your loom over and set up the warping board, although be warned the loom/warping board combination is great but the pegs do slip some. I now use a wall mounted old-fashioned warping board instead. But the one that comes with your loom will save you a lot of money in the short term and is a lot easier than warping around a chair.

I thought I had web photos of my shawls I did on my Kromski loom but they don't seem to be up yet. I'll try and add them later (I can't post pictures here as I'm "full" and don't know how to delete the photos) so you can see them and add a link. But you can make all sorts of nice things on these simple looms.

DC

[LordThor]

I used to be a weaver in a cotton mill way back when. Does that count?

http://img.tradeindia.com/tradeleads/1/org_1905484.jpg

[DryRun]

DC

A Baby Wolf lives with us, but not well used - currently a rack for an end bolt of linen.

Any pointers on weaving blankets on a Baby Wolf ?
-How many yards of warp do you put on ?
-Thread the warp from the front or the back ?
-EPI for the warp?
- recommended yarn for the warp? looking at yarn.com for possible warps
- tabby, ?twill or ??
- I presume you either sew widths together ( 22" weaving width on BW) or do a double weave in tabby.

The weft will be 'wheel-spun', either Welsh Mountain or odds and ends for a bit of naturals colors plaid.

Dry Run


Hi, I've got to do a weaving order for a customer today so can't spend much time on line. But I thought I'd see if there were any other weavers here (I know we have spinners, I do that too). If so, what type of looms do you use and what do you most often weave?

I sell tablet weaving and do that on an Inkle loom but for fun I weave fiber and blankets on a Baby Wolf 26 inch loom with 4 heddles and six treddles. I mostly use commercial wool, though I've woven one scarf with garden dyed home spun (mostly St. John's Wart) and hope to do more with homespun this Winter.

More later,
DC

[Disastercat]

I made a blanket last month (really an Osberg Viking Shawl but I use it as a blankie most of the time).

I had old rug yarn from the last rug mill in Ireland (closed about 15 years ago) and its close in thickness to my homespun double ply, perhaps a tiny bit thiner. To expand the width of my fabric, I got brave and tried double weave. My first shawl was lovely but not long enough, so I warped on about 3 yards, with an E.P.I. of 5 (using a 10 dent reed). I made it more interesting by doing stripes of various colors in the warp (realizing that each striped is going to be half the size of what your counting). Then I also made stripes in the weft for a lovely plaid blanket effect.

On a four harness loom you can only weave "Tabby" in double weave, if you have eight harnesses you can do twills, though I can't do that on my loom. But that does not mean you can't do all sorts of things with color. In fact putting a stripe at the edge is a good idea because the middle tends to bunch up, where you turn to go backwards.

I realize all this is probably not making a lot of sense to non floor loom weavers, but to be simple, double weave is a way to make your loom weave a double width or closed tube of cloth if you prefer. Its used to make wide fabrics, closed pillows or even the necklines of some garments.

I will be making one of these in twill for my husband, since the Vikings used more twill than not, but I'll just make a double length piece (or two pieces) and put tablet weaving down the join.

Also, the new Baby Wolf reeds are 26 inches wide, so ordering new ones can help. My old 12 inch is only 22, but all the rest are wider. Which meant I could weave 52 inches wide before shrinking and fulling the fabric.

My suggestion is do a sample scarf or small shawl (I did both) then do double width weave for a blanket or fuller shawl.

I'll let you know how the piece work brat/men's shawl goes for DH.

DC

[Disastercat]

Oh, and the new reeds fit on the old Baby Wolf looms, its a bit crowded but it works.

[DryRun]

"I'll let you know how the piece work brat/men's shawl goes for DH."

Brat - the kind that looks like a sheepskin, but is locks of fleece woven in during the weaving process ? I saw one of those woven by someone in Michigan - it looked extra toasty warm.

No weaving here until the garden is cleared, coldframes up, workshop and basement cleaned and reorganized - yea, about the 12th of Never.

DR

[Disastercat]

Nope Brat is just really another world for shawl but men tend to like it better. It tends to be used for the rectangular variety for men and women. It often takes the place of "plaid" when referring to ancient Irish dress, I suspect because often it isn't striped or decorated. I'll be doing his in a Viking Twill of some sort, 2/2 is the most common.

Probably won't happen this month with visitors from Colorado and the garden. But hopefully in October to be ready by Yule.

[Deb Mc.]

Yes, try your very first project with cotton, crochet thread can work or even cotton yarns. If you have to start with wool, try a good strong rug yarn. It has to be able to go through the heddles but for a first project the stronger and heavier it is, the less frustrated you are likely to be.

To test yarn, yank it a bit, if it breaks it is weft yarn, it if doesn't it can be warp. But fuzzy yarns, softer wool yarns and linen yarns are all very hard to manage as warps. The more so as first warps.

So, go for a nice colorful cotton if you can get it (I used number 10 crochet thread) or the sort of wool yarn you might knit a pot holder out of. After you do one project from warp to finishes then experiment a little.

I found the book Warping All by Yourself to be a great help. Its designed for multi-shaft looms, but the basic process is pretty much the same. You'll just be warping through the heddles (and you can find on-line sources for this) a little differently. But this book will tell you how to measure your warp and how to pack it on the loom etc.

http://www.amazon.com/Warping-All-Yourself-Cay-Garrett/dp/0930670019

Also, for a first project, your loom comes with a warping peg for short warps and I suggest using that for your first one. You won't be able to make something very long, but it will be easier to manage. The second project, flip your loom over and set up the warping board, although be warned the loom/warping board combination is great but the pegs do slip some. I now use a wall mounted old-fashioned warping board instead. But the one that comes with your loom will save you a lot of money in the short term and is a lot easier than warping around a chair.

I thought I had web photos of my shawls I did on my Kromski loom but they don't seem to be up yet. I'll try and add them later (I can't post pictures here as I'm "full" and don't know how to delete the photos) so you can see them and add a link. But you can make all sorts of nice things on these simple looms.

DC


D.C.,

Wow, thank you! I'll be sure to do that. I've picked up some crochet thread earlier (it's size 10 too - yay!).

As for "rug yarn", any suggestions? Most stuff here locally is for knitting and is usually medium or fine wool. No Karakul or Churro yarns here locally. Any other wool breeds you could suggest for stronger weight yarns?

Thank you for the warping book suggestion. I'll be looking to buy that ASAP. Have heard that getting the loom warped was one of the more difficult parts of weaving. Learning from others' experiences is the preferred route. (Last thing I'd want to do is turn it into some oversized Gordian Knot.)

Thanks again!

[Disastercat]

What you need is WORSTED wool, the sort that is combed not carded. The best place to get some may be e-bay or a shop that sells yarn for weavers, not just knitters. A good weaving shop on the internet will know the difference. Just tell them you are just starting out and want to warp your loom with something wool but good strong wool unlikely to break. If you tell them what sort of loom you have (and these are popular) they will have a pretty good idea of how heavy it can be and still work well.

It really isn't about how thick it is anyway, its about how strong it is. You don't want lots of breaking threads in a first project. It can be tedious enough even after you know what you are doing.

And yes, get a copy of Warping All by Yourself, I put off weaving much for almost 2 decades because I was so traumatized by my first warping experiences. Now I know two ways to put on warp when I'm by myself. The book method is easier and I also have the one my weaving teacher in Scotland figured out for herself. I used it when I had a project nearly self-destruct, and it had even better tension that the stick method used in the book. However, it is much more time consuming and tedious so I don't use it unless there's a good reason. For most projects the use of the tension sticks is amazing and much easier than trying to warp by hanging on and pulling.

[Deb Mc.]

D.C.,

No problem - will do.

Understood re: worsted vs. woolen (parallel vs. scattered fibers). THank you for clarifying that! Finding worsted won't be a problem at all.

Can't wait to get started, this will be an adventure!

Thanks again...