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The Doctor's Office Reporting and Discussion of Flu and Disease Conditions

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  #11  
Old 03-26-2012, 03:56 PM
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Meemur Meemur is offline
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Yes, wear gloves!

I've been known to wrap a strip of moleskin around my rake (as a grip) for the first session or two. I've also been know to add it to my feet or fingers where I typically get blisters *before* they start, and that works well if the temps aren't too hot.

I bought a bunch of these packs at a drug store close out a few years ago.

This is what packs of mole skin look like. I imagine you can find cheaper generics in your area.

http://www.medshopexpress.com/122649...FSQCQAodNzYc5A

As for treating them, I leave hand blisters alone if I can. Otherwise, I soak foot and hand blisters in warm water at the end of the day, pop and bandage them. I use wound pads all night and athletic tape and then drain it again in the morning (if necessary) and apply a band aid and moleskin (sometimes) on top (feet!)

Usually by week 2 working outside, it's no longer an issue.
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  #12  
Old 04-09-2012, 03:20 PM
Herbmountain Herbmountain is offline
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Lavender essential oil is my favorite. It seals the skin, takes away the pain, is antibiotic and heals over night. Cost is about 5-10.00 for a half an ounce and it will last forever. One drop on the blister is all you need. I also use it for cuts and burns too.
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  #13  
Old 04-09-2012, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herbmountain View Post
Lavender essential oil is my favorite. It seals the skin, takes away the pain, is antibiotic and heals over night. Cost is about 5-10.00 for a half an ounce and it will last forever. One drop on the blister is all you need. I also use it for cuts and burns too.

I have a bottle, will have to try it next time, will put that tidbit in my gardening book.

K-
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  #14  
Old 04-10-2012, 01:17 PM
Herbmountain Herbmountain is offline
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Good. And it smells wonderful. So you get relaxed and healed at the same time.
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  #15  
Old 04-11-2012, 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Summerthyme View Post
Dunno... I make it myself by the gallon. We don't use it for internal use for humans, so I'm not paranoid about whether or not it's a "true colloid". It WORKS. And I can make a quart in 10 minutes, for pennies (or a fraction of a penny... I've been using the same 1 ounce bar cut in half for 10 years now... there's still lots of silver left!)

The silver impregnated bandaids can be found at Walmar, almost certainly at Amazon, and www.Jefferspet.com has "vetwrap" with silver impregnated pads on them. Really great for livestock- or people! LOL! and a LOT cheaper than the ones sold for humans...

http://www.jefferspet.com/pet-flex-s...ing/p/0034881/

Summerthyme

Can you make this simply by soaking a pure, silver coin in a gallon of distilled water? If the pioneers made it, they would of had to have a way other than using batteries and a generator, wouldn't they?
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  #16  
Old 04-11-2012, 12:53 PM
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Trasael Adnepos Trasael Adnepos is offline
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The silver coin in the canteen was a means of miminal purification and retardation of bacterial growth, which is why you see them shaking the canteen before drinking in some old westerns, but minimal is the key. Parts cost maybe $15 for the last one I made for someone a few months back, plus the .9999 silver wire for the probes/ electrodes, which you may have to order up. Gang/stack three good quality 9V batteries in series - that's negative to positive with one positive terminal on one end of the stack and one negative terminal on the other end, 27 volts. You'll need a package of 9V battery snap-on terminals, some silver solder suitable for electronics, some very small shrink wraps for your electrode connections and battery configuration splices after they are soldered, and one slightly larger shrink wrap to tie the electrodes together maybe half an inch above the ends of the smaller ones, because you are going to bend them apart to right around 3/8 " spacing from the neck to the ends, with the straight parallel wires long enough to keep the yoke/connections out of the water in at least a pint jar. A cable tie-wrap will do to keep your battery stack together. Some twin lead stranded like good quality speaker wire a foot long or a little more (but not too long due resistance/voltage drop), will do for your leads. Use a two wire plug, automotive or electronic, (preferably reversible so you can change positive and negative electrodes without desoldering when the positive probe shows wear, but you can always just cut, reverse, and splice the leads), so you can disconnect the leads when not in use to avoid shorting them out and ruining your batteries during storage. Stick them in a pint jar of (only!) distilled water for half an hour and your ppm will be just about right for consumption or topical use, but you can make it strong as you like. Don't use leaded crystal glass. If you want to make a little foam or cardboard top for your jar or glass so the electrodes don't touch the bottom, you will avoid the losing current across the surface of the glass the wires touch, with a few marks on the glass, and get better battery life, but no real big deal. I often just lean the probes so only one is touching the bottom. If they get "fuzzy" with particles, swish those off in your solution when it's done, then wipe off your probes with a paper towel to clean them. Don't use scrubbers because you are losing silver. Good batteries will make a lot of collodial before replacement, but you'll be able to visually tell when the process slows down, and can check with a voltmeter. A cheap VoM is around $3 when on doorbuster sale at Harbor Freight, and you should have one anyway. There are plenty of good, more sophisticated plans on the net, and you may of course add a suitable housing, on/off microswitch, battery indicator LED with a resistor circuit, etc., but cheap and quick is good, and so is simple. The last time I needed #10 99.99 % silver wire, it was readily available from CCsilver.com, but no doubt has gone up in price since the early 2000's.
Buying the stuff in liquid form is really expensive. If you mail or ship this device with three batteries ganged to anyone be sure to label it "medical device" so the dilrods don't suspect it is a b-b-b-b___.


Tras
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  #17  
Old 04-12-2012, 06:44 AM
Summerthyme Summerthyme is offline
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Tras is right. It's SO simple to make with three 9 volt batteries or a small alternator setup (if anyone has any clue about simple building). Putting a silver coin in milk used to keep it from souring quite as quickly, but I wouldn't think it would give you levels high enough to be used as a potent antibiotic. And that's precisely what properly made colloidal silver is.

And PLEASE- NEVER, EVER use anything except .999 or higher pure silver. A "silver coin", if it's an old silver dollar or "junk" silver, isn't pure silver, and you sure don't want "colloidal heavy metals" in your body! Even silver can be overdone... but most of the others are downright toxic.

I have rechargeable 9 volt batteries in the preps, but even though I make gallons of colloidal silver every year, a set of 3, 9 volt batteries lasts me at least 6-9 months. Sometimes quite a bit longer.

Summerthyme
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  #18  
Old 04-12-2012, 06:53 AM
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Thanks, Tras, for the excellent description and instructions.....ST, too. I just thought there was an easy, lazy way to do it without all of the electrical hoo-ha. I don't have the money to buy those meager supplies, let alone the silver, but I've always wanted to make my own CS.

I have a bottle in the cabinet that's about gone....paid about 15$ for it (IIRC) during the H1N1 thing, and since then have wanted large quantities around for whatever comes up.
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  #19  
Old 04-12-2012, 07:36 AM
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For those that might be interested in making there own Colloidal Silver, I give you the following links.

http://www.quantumbalancing.com/makeyourowncs.htm

http://www.endtimesreport.com/Colloi...Generator.html

and this video for you as well...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Acpvp...eature=related

ENJOY!
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  #20  
Old 04-14-2012, 06:58 AM
janetn janetn is offline
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Dumb question - How do you store the Colloidal Silver?

Their is a product called sure prep, you wipe it on a blister and it keeps the skin over the blister from rupturing. You can also use it as a preventive measure - but gloves are better. Unless your dealing with a bad set of shoes and then its great for preventing blisters from forming

Moleskin is a good idea too - never thought of that
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